Kitchen Cabinets: Revive the old!

I spoke about refinishing cabinets by painting and/or by replacing doors for an updated look, but if you have good wood cabinets you may just want to redo and refresh the wood with stain. This is a very inexpensive option, but it can be very time consuming depending on the specific project.

Let’s say, the cabinets are a good wood, but are dull and need refreshing, You may want to stain them and keep the wood-look rather than paint over them. Let’s assume a scenario of cabinets that are in good condition, but need refreshing and perhaps a deeper stain. (The prep work is virtually the same as for painting cabinets as described in my previous post on kitchen cabinets.)

1. Anytime you are working with wood, ALWAYS FOLLOW THE GRAIN OF THE WOOD!
2. As in any case, be sure they are clean! Use degreaser or TSP. If you choose TSP, read all the label directions carefully, it is a very harsh and toxic chemical and you will need to take all the precautions very seriously. Do not work with this unless you are using heavy rubber gloves and eye protection and have good ventilation.
3. Remove all cabinet doors, drawer fronts. Number each piece to matching cabinet.
4. Remove all hardware and keep it in a container to avoid losing any pieces.
5. Place cabinets/drawer fronts in a horizontal position. Wherever you choose to place your cabinets, cover the floor. Perhaps you chose the garage, (a good choice) and you don’t care if anything gets on the floor, but if not, be sure the area where you are working is covered even if only a piece of cardboard.

There is a product line which I have used in the past, called Fornby’s. It can be purchased at any hardware or home improvement store. It is more expensive than some of the other refinishing products available; however, it does not contain the harsh chemicals of most products. It removes the gloss finish, doesn’t strip the natural color or raise the wood grain; therefore, you can avoid the sanding process. I used it to restore a grimy, old table top. Probably not the best advice, but because the table was so large and heavy, I could not physically move it. I opened windows and worked in my house. I didn’t really notice any fumes, but cautiously took several “fresh air breaks” anyway. I completed the table top by hand rubbing it with their tung oil product. I was extremely pleased with the results.

However, if you have cabinets that have been painted or had several layers of paint that need to be removed you may have to consider a harsh chemical stripper. All cautions need to be applied. In fact, if you are working in an older home, it is very likely that any paint work done prior to 1978 was lead based. If so, be extremely cautious about any paint dust you may generate by sanding. For your own safety, you may want to consider wearing a respirator instead of something like a simple breathing mask.

I would suggest that you take a cabinet door or perhaps a drawer from to a specialty store for a product recommendation. I have always used Zip-Strip or Strypeeze for difficult projects, http://www.paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore.com/). I have never really felt the milder chemical products did a very good job.

• Follow the same steps as (1-5) above.

CAUTIONS: Read the product directions carefully. These types of stripping products are very harsh and have a strong solvent smell. You NEED to work in a very well ventilated area, such as a garage. If you are working on wood that cannot be removed from your house, do small areas at a time! Allow plenty of time to complete this project! Do this when you can open windows, take plenty of “fresh air breaks” outdoors. Keep your children and pets in a non-toxic area. You may need to wear a respirator, safety goggles and definitely good quality gloves!

1. Use a brush to apply the stripper, using ample amounts and always following the grain of the wood.
2. Allow the product to stay on the cabinet, you will see the paint “crinkle”. Don’t get too anxious to remove it, LET THE PRODUCT DO THE WORK!
3. Use a putty knife (or other tools listed below) to remove the paint.
4. Rinse with water, let dry prior to sanding.
5. When all the paint is removed, sand the cabinets with a “hand sander”, not “by hand” or the project will be a life-long commitment! These products tend to raise the grain to some degree, you want a smooth finish. Also, if there are bits of paint remaining, sanding will also remove them.
6. Apply new stain.
7. Protect the cabinets by applying a varnish or polyurethane.
8. Allow for a long drying time between coats. It may seem dry, but “curing” may take weeks.

TOOLS:

• Gloves – heavy rubber, not light latex gloves as in painting. In fact have at least two pair. If you get a tear in your glove, you want a replacement. This stuff WILL hurt on your skin! Also, “cuff” your gloves when wearing them to prevent stripper from dripping to your arm.
• Metal or glass container with a lid. You can pour some of your stripper in the container and work with small amounts at a time.
• Brushes. For a harsh stripping product use cheap brushes…when you are done you can dispose of them. (Most landfill areas have an area for disposal of household hazards.) Use better brushes for applying sealer.
• Putty knife. This is used to remove the paint after it has “crinkled”. I also like to use an old kitchen knife with a fairly wide blade, it is sharper than a putty knife, but be careful not to “nick” the wood. For hard to get to areas or detailed areas, I will use a tiny flat edge screwdriver, a toothbrush or anything else I can find in my house to improvise!
• Soft cloths (lint free) to apply stain and/or brushes.
• Fine grained steel wool to help remove any bits of remaining paint. The steel wool can also be used between coats of sealer for a smooth finish. Be sure there is NO residue of the steel wool remaining on your work. Use that soft damp cloth to be sure the residue is removed prior to finishing.

Kitchen cabinets...More Options.

My last blog spoke entirely of updating your kitchen cabinets by painting. I assumed you had wooden cabinets that were usable, but perhaps older and just boring! In fact, you may even have a house that still has the old metal cabinets! They too can be painted. Just remember to purchase a paint that is designed to be used on metal.

Of course, make sure the cabinets are clean, and check out the foam roller I spoke about in my last blog. If painting on metal you could also use cans of spray paint, but really be careful of “over spray” and doing thin coats, just more of them to keep the paint from “running”. I like these cabinets because they are nostalgic, but certainly not as functional as the newer ones in which you can add many convenient organizational features.

I spoke briefly about considering the “investment” interest in your choices for painting, but if I had metal cabinets, this is a time where I might do something just for fun, something dramatic or just whimsical. For example, perhaps if you have artistic talent, paint a mural of a field of wildflowers across the doors or something that would address your lifestyle. I think it would be really fun to be creative or dramatic with these cabinets because in all honesty, if you eventually sell your home with metal kitchen cabinets, the buyer would most likely remove them anyway... Or not, if you are a skilled artist! (I'm still working on "stick people".)

Okay, no more painting….let’s get back to options for typical wooden cabinets.

1. Change the color of the wood by refinishing with a darker (?) stain.
2. Add moldings to the doors.
3. Replace the doors and drawer fronts. There are companies that just specialize in doors and drawers like www.kitchendoordepot.com/doit.phb. This site has a great page on how to measure the cabinets you have to be sure you know how to buy doors and drawer fronts. They are not inexpensive, but far less money than new cabinets plus installing cabinets is not the easiest project.
4. You can also purchase cabinets that you assemble yourself. They are at all home improvement stores and available by many companies and in several styles, including unfinished if you want to save more money. You can choose which “add-on’s” you want, such as roll-out shelving, lazy susan, etc.

An important consideration, if you purchase cabinets: You can do everything on-line, but home improvement stores offer an in-store computer design service. If you just need to double-check yourself, take accurate measurements of your room, a drawing of the location of appliances, windows, doors, location of outlets, etc. with you to the store. They will go to their computers and design your kitchen, and give you a list of all the cabinets you need to complete the project. You might even get some great suggestions since this is what they do every day!

At one time, I purchased Mills Pride cabinets at Home Depot and assembled them. They really are no’t hard to do, just like a puzzle but with really large pieces. Honestly, I have purchased Christmas toys that were more difficult to assemble! It can a bit awkward to handle larger pieces like a pantry cabinet. The real key is to read the directions! (In other words, don’t have a man help you with the project!) It’s been awhile, but if I remember correctly, there is a hinge that if placed in wrong and when “locked” in place, it cannot be removed. I had to replace a cabinet because a “helper” didn't read directions! Check out and make sure all the pieces are included. I had a huge pantry with some missing shelving, It was replaced and I must credit Home Depot for customer service that was far beyond my expectations.

• If you don’t want to do that much work, of course you can go to any kitchen & bath store, or home improvement store and purchase ready-made and custom cabinets. Definitely, shop around. Most of these stores have kitchen displays for great ideas and as previously stated, design assistance. Home depot, and Lowe’s are obvious choice since they are located in all parts of the country. I would also suggest you also check out IKEA. This company offers a different type of cabinets, usually very contemporary, European style and can be purchased in “units”. They are reasonably priced and usually on sale twice a year. I have noticed that Home Depot now carries products from one of their suppliers. (Sorry, I’m guilty of not knowing if other home improvement stores are doing the same, but this could save money on freight charges since they do not have as many store locations.) While you are on the Ikea site, also check out their cabinet hardware and lighting. They are usually very stylish and reasonably priced!

If you choose to assemble, and/or install cabinets be sure you have:

• A good tape measure, a level , a power drill, and preferably two strong helpers to “manhandle” the cabinets into place or hold the upper cabinets while they are fastened to the walls! This is really not a job for one person. You just don’t have enough hands and cabinets are awkward and heavy!

I hate my kitchen cabinets! Let's talk paint!

So every time you walk into your kitchen, you look at those cabinets and get depressed! That's a lot of depression! The ideal situation would be to hire a kitchen designer, hire a cabinetmaker, "gut" the room. Here comes the.. BUT, you know it is out of your budget --at least for now.

There are many alternatives that I will talk about, but one of the least expensive is painting, so let's talk about that option first. If I have to make budget choices, I will paint or glaze my cabinets, assuming they are in usable condition. Then, spend money on adding shelving that slides out, spice racks inside doors, or features such as "lazy susan" for corner cabinets, making what I have convenient to use. These features can be really expensive when purchasing kitchens, but it is wonderful to have a pantry shelf slide out and have everything on it visible. Most of these items can be purchased as an "add-on" in any home improvement store.

• Consider the style of your home, is it traditional, historic, cottage-style, country or contemporary?
• Do you want to maintain the integrity of that style?
• Check out your paints or glazes based on the feeling you want when you are in the room.
• Keep in mind the amount of space your cabinets assume in the room, do you want them to be the entire focal area or background?
• Are you doing the project for your own enjoyment? After all, the house is yours...or do want to consider the possibility of this as "investment" for the future? If you will be selling your house in the future, will your choices be appealing to others?

Examples: I love a light, sleek contemporary kitchen, however if I lived in a older cottage-style home at the beach, I would probably blend the two styles the best I can without sacrificing the integrity of my beach cottage. I might paint my cabinets white, my surrounding walls a very pale beachy blue or green, with future plans to tile a back splash with small glass tiles resembling sea glass.

My sister, having purchased a late 70's style home, with dark wood of that era, did a deep green glaze over her cabinets. I would never have thought to choose that color, but with the traditional decor of the rest of her house the result was stunning! The glaze only required that the cabinets were clean prior to glazing.

Personally, I would never paint my cabinets a bold color such as red. If I wanted red in my kitchen, I would paint my cabinets white and accent in red with kitchen towels, art work, perhaps tiles, or even a wall! This is only because the cabinets in red would be so dramatic, too busy, and a very time-consuming change if I tire of it, or want to consider the "investment" possibilities of my home.

If you just aren't sure you can see the "whole" picture, try the Internet. For example, Sherwin-Williams.com, a site for Inspiration & Ideas, Colors & tools. You can pick out a kitchen, drag and drop colors on the walls, cabinets, counter tops, etc. Behr.com has the same type of virtual color design for their paints. If you haven't been able to decide what to do, these (and there are many other) Internet options are fun to play with....they also have some great design ideas, either for now for the future.

• You have decided to paint your cabinets and have chosen the color you want.
• Plan your to do at least two coats of paint. Leave plenty of drying time between coats.
• Check with the paint store, you might want to purchase a higher gloss oil based paint (if painting on wood) for cabinets. You want a paint that you can clean repeatedly in the kitchen.
• Clean the cabinets really well and know they are dry. (I like to use a degreaser.)
• Remove all cabinet doors, hinges, and hardware. Keep these together with all the screws, etc., so you aren't searching for parts when putting them back together.
• Number each door or drawer front to the match the cabinet you removed it from. They can have just minor differences and it is frustrating when you replace them and they just don't fit right...then waste time "juggling" them around for just the right spot.
• Preferably use a sander. If you don't have one, you can hand sand, but a small hand sander is quite inexpensive, and you will be amazed at the number of times you will put it to use.
• If the cabinets have been painted prior, you might have to use paint remover if there are several coats of paint. The point is to have a surface that is smooth so the new paint can adhere.
• A good quality paint brush and/or roller. I like a brush about 2". Depending on the cabinet style, you may also want a small foam roller for smooth surfaces.
• Blue painters tape.
• Keep cabinet doors flat (horizontal) when painting to reduce the possibility of "runs" in the finished product.

Once when painting cabinets, I was enjoying my project, singing along to good music, admiring my precise work AND having an excuse to splurge on "take-out" dinners; I had a friend decide to be helpful and save me a lot of time by spray painting all the cabinet doors. I admit I was hesitant, but agreed. I noticed all the doors standing vertically against a building and my friend was spraying away! Perhaps it would have worked by spraying several really thin coats of paint, but every one of my doors had "runs". I had to wait until they thoroughly were dry and then sand them again and repaint each one. Needless to say, I was not very happy! Besides, I ended up with "overspray" on a newly painted building. Sometimes short cuts just aren't!

As much as I was irritated by the additional work and time this mistake was going to cost me, I also realized how much the details count. I could do the work now and make sure I had a completed project I could be proud of, or do a "quick-fix", hang the cabinets and say "it'll do". Knowing myself, the only choice was the first. Had I chosen "it'll do", I would notice every imperfect area on those cabinet doors forever and I would hate my kitchen even more than if I had left it alone. I also knew that once I stopped, it would be really hard to face the same project again. So I rolled up my sleeves, turned the music a little louder and started singing "I'm Walking on Sunshine..."

The final result was wonderful. Each time I walked into the room, I wondered why I hadn't done this project sooner. On this project, the wooden cabinets had been painted prior, I sanded them, used a Martha Stewart paint from Ace Hardware.

Now that you've finished painting, consider changing the hardware. Cabinet hardware can make a dramatic impact and a simple way to modernize any style.