Kitchen cabinets...More Options.

My last blog spoke entirely of updating your kitchen cabinets by painting. I assumed you had wooden cabinets that were usable, but perhaps older and just boring! In fact, you may even have a house that still has the old metal cabinets! They too can be painted. Just remember to purchase a paint that is designed to be used on metal.

Of course, make sure the cabinets are clean, and check out the foam roller I spoke about in my last blog. If painting on metal you could also use cans of spray paint, but really be careful of “over spray” and doing thin coats, just more of them to keep the paint from “running”. I like these cabinets because they are nostalgic, but certainly not as functional as the newer ones in which you can add many convenient organizational features.

I spoke briefly about considering the “investment” interest in your choices for painting, but if I had metal cabinets, this is a time where I might do something just for fun, something dramatic or just whimsical. For example, perhaps if you have artistic talent, paint a mural of a field of wildflowers across the doors or something that would address your lifestyle. I think it would be really fun to be creative or dramatic with these cabinets because in all honesty, if you eventually sell your home with metal kitchen cabinets, the buyer would most likely remove them anyway... Or not, if you are a skilled artist! (I'm still working on "stick people".)

Okay, no more painting….let’s get back to options for typical wooden cabinets.

1. Change the color of the wood by refinishing with a darker (?) stain.
2. Add moldings to the doors.
3. Replace the doors and drawer fronts. There are companies that just specialize in doors and drawers like www.kitchendoordepot.com/doit.phb. This site has a great page on how to measure the cabinets you have to be sure you know how to buy doors and drawer fronts. They are not inexpensive, but far less money than new cabinets plus installing cabinets is not the easiest project.
4. You can also purchase cabinets that you assemble yourself. They are at all home improvement stores and available by many companies and in several styles, including unfinished if you want to save more money. You can choose which “add-on’s” you want, such as roll-out shelving, lazy susan, etc.

An important consideration, if you purchase cabinets: You can do everything on-line, but home improvement stores offer an in-store computer design service. If you just need to double-check yourself, take accurate measurements of your room, a drawing of the location of appliances, windows, doors, location of outlets, etc. with you to the store. They will go to their computers and design your kitchen, and give you a list of all the cabinets you need to complete the project. You might even get some great suggestions since this is what they do every day!

At one time, I purchased Mills Pride cabinets at Home Depot and assembled them. They really are no’t hard to do, just like a puzzle but with really large pieces. Honestly, I have purchased Christmas toys that were more difficult to assemble! It can a bit awkward to handle larger pieces like a pantry cabinet. The real key is to read the directions! (In other words, don’t have a man help you with the project!) It’s been awhile, but if I remember correctly, there is a hinge that if placed in wrong and when “locked” in place, it cannot be removed. I had to replace a cabinet because a “helper” didn't read directions! Check out and make sure all the pieces are included. I had a huge pantry with some missing shelving, It was replaced and I must credit Home Depot for customer service that was far beyond my expectations.

• If you don’t want to do that much work, of course you can go to any kitchen & bath store, or home improvement store and purchase ready-made and custom cabinets. Definitely, shop around. Most of these stores have kitchen displays for great ideas and as previously stated, design assistance. Home depot, and Lowe’s are obvious choice since they are located in all parts of the country. I would also suggest you also check out IKEA. This company offers a different type of cabinets, usually very contemporary, European style and can be purchased in “units”. They are reasonably priced and usually on sale twice a year. I have noticed that Home Depot now carries products from one of their suppliers. (Sorry, I’m guilty of not knowing if other home improvement stores are doing the same, but this could save money on freight charges since they do not have as many store locations.) While you are on the Ikea site, also check out their cabinet hardware and lighting. They are usually very stylish and reasonably priced!

If you choose to assemble, and/or install cabinets be sure you have:

• A good tape measure, a level , a power drill, and preferably two strong helpers to “manhandle” the cabinets into place or hold the upper cabinets while they are fastened to the walls! This is really not a job for one person. You just don’t have enough hands and cabinets are awkward and heavy!

I hate my kitchen cabinets! Let's talk paint!

So every time you walk into your kitchen, you look at those cabinets and get depressed! That's a lot of depression! The ideal situation would be to hire a kitchen designer, hire a cabinetmaker, "gut" the room. Here comes the.. BUT, you know it is out of your budget --at least for now.

There are many alternatives that I will talk about, but one of the least expensive is painting, so let's talk about that option first. If I have to make budget choices, I will paint or glaze my cabinets, assuming they are in usable condition. Then, spend money on adding shelving that slides out, spice racks inside doors, or features such as "lazy susan" for corner cabinets, making what I have convenient to use. These features can be really expensive when purchasing kitchens, but it is wonderful to have a pantry shelf slide out and have everything on it visible. Most of these items can be purchased as an "add-on" in any home improvement store.

• Consider the style of your home, is it traditional, historic, cottage-style, country or contemporary?
• Do you want to maintain the integrity of that style?
• Check out your paints or glazes based on the feeling you want when you are in the room.
• Keep in mind the amount of space your cabinets assume in the room, do you want them to be the entire focal area or background?
• Are you doing the project for your own enjoyment? After all, the house is yours...or do want to consider the possibility of this as "investment" for the future? If you will be selling your house in the future, will your choices be appealing to others?

Examples: I love a light, sleek contemporary kitchen, however if I lived in a older cottage-style home at the beach, I would probably blend the two styles the best I can without sacrificing the integrity of my beach cottage. I might paint my cabinets white, my surrounding walls a very pale beachy blue or green, with future plans to tile a back splash with small glass tiles resembling sea glass.

My sister, having purchased a late 70's style home, with dark wood of that era, did a deep green glaze over her cabinets. I would never have thought to choose that color, but with the traditional decor of the rest of her house the result was stunning! The glaze only required that the cabinets were clean prior to glazing.

Personally, I would never paint my cabinets a bold color such as red. If I wanted red in my kitchen, I would paint my cabinets white and accent in red with kitchen towels, art work, perhaps tiles, or even a wall! This is only because the cabinets in red would be so dramatic, too busy, and a very time-consuming change if I tire of it, or want to consider the "investment" possibilities of my home.

If you just aren't sure you can see the "whole" picture, try the Internet. For example, Sherwin-Williams.com, a site for Inspiration & Ideas, Colors & tools. You can pick out a kitchen, drag and drop colors on the walls, cabinets, counter tops, etc. Behr.com has the same type of virtual color design for their paints. If you haven't been able to decide what to do, these (and there are many other) Internet options are fun to play with....they also have some great design ideas, either for now for the future.

• You have decided to paint your cabinets and have chosen the color you want.
• Plan your to do at least two coats of paint. Leave plenty of drying time between coats.
• Check with the paint store, you might want to purchase a higher gloss oil based paint (if painting on wood) for cabinets. You want a paint that you can clean repeatedly in the kitchen.
• Clean the cabinets really well and know they are dry. (I like to use a degreaser.)
• Remove all cabinet doors, hinges, and hardware. Keep these together with all the screws, etc., so you aren't searching for parts when putting them back together.
• Number each door or drawer front to the match the cabinet you removed it from. They can have just minor differences and it is frustrating when you replace them and they just don't fit right...then waste time "juggling" them around for just the right spot.
• Preferably use a sander. If you don't have one, you can hand sand, but a small hand sander is quite inexpensive, and you will be amazed at the number of times you will put it to use.
• If the cabinets have been painted prior, you might have to use paint remover if there are several coats of paint. The point is to have a surface that is smooth so the new paint can adhere.
• A good quality paint brush and/or roller. I like a brush about 2". Depending on the cabinet style, you may also want a small foam roller for smooth surfaces.
• Blue painters tape.
• Keep cabinet doors flat (horizontal) when painting to reduce the possibility of "runs" in the finished product.

Once when painting cabinets, I was enjoying my project, singing along to good music, admiring my precise work AND having an excuse to splurge on "take-out" dinners; I had a friend decide to be helpful and save me a lot of time by spray painting all the cabinet doors. I admit I was hesitant, but agreed. I noticed all the doors standing vertically against a building and my friend was spraying away! Perhaps it would have worked by spraying several really thin coats of paint, but every one of my doors had "runs". I had to wait until they thoroughly were dry and then sand them again and repaint each one. Needless to say, I was not very happy! Besides, I ended up with "overspray" on a newly painted building. Sometimes short cuts just aren't!

As much as I was irritated by the additional work and time this mistake was going to cost me, I also realized how much the details count. I could do the work now and make sure I had a completed project I could be proud of, or do a "quick-fix", hang the cabinets and say "it'll do". Knowing myself, the only choice was the first. Had I chosen "it'll do", I would notice every imperfect area on those cabinet doors forever and I would hate my kitchen even more than if I had left it alone. I also knew that once I stopped, it would be really hard to face the same project again. So I rolled up my sleeves, turned the music a little louder and started singing "I'm Walking on Sunshine..."

The final result was wonderful. Each time I walked into the room, I wondered why I hadn't done this project sooner. On this project, the wooden cabinets had been painted prior, I sanded them, used a Martha Stewart paint from Ace Hardware.

Now that you've finished painting, consider changing the hardware. Cabinet hardware can make a dramatic impact and a simple way to modernize any style.

Painting: Tools

Whenever I engage on a painting project, my first reaction is that "I really hate to paint", actually, I don't think that is true...I think I really enjoy painting. I don't like the prep work and the mess! The reason I do it anyway is because I always love the result.

Some of things that I have learned to make my job easier:

• Have the right tools. The first thing everyone does is to buy a paint roller and paint pan. If you are using a roller, especially if you are buying it in a kit, make sure it is right for the project. If the walls or ceiling are heavily textured, you want a thick roller. If not, a thinner one. They hold a LOT of paint.
• I like to use a paint "pad". They come in all sizes and shapes. I usually use one about mid-size, perhaps 4"x6". The reason for I choose to use this rather than a roller: the roller gets heavy when filled with paint, it also splatters paint back on me. I personally feel that the pad gives me more control on how much paint I am applying, it doesn't splatter, and cleans up easier. I also find that when cleaning it, I am rinsing out a lot less paint.
• A paint stick for stirring the paint.
• A container for pouring my paint without a lot of mess. These can be purchased. A lot of paint now comes with a "pour spout" or you can simply take a funnel and a old plastic milk carton (clean) and pour your paint in it. By doing this, I don't have paint dripping down the side of the can or caught in the grooves of the lid. I can pour some paint in my pan, put the top tightly on my container. I find I don't dump as much paint into the pan and having it dry out.
• Good Brushes. Buy a couple of good brushes, they really make a difference when painting. It is really annoying to do all the work and see brush strokes when your done or to have bristles stuck in the paint. Just remember to always clean them well and you can keep them for many painting projects. My personal favorites are the smaller ones, 1" - 2". I also like them to have a slant, but that is less important than the quality. I feel I have better control of the smaller brush when doing detail work like painting close to moldings, or edging areas like where the wall and ceiling meet.
• Artist brush. I like to have a very fine brush also - similar size to a watercolor brush in a children's paint set. Actually, just a bit larger with good bristles. The reason I use this is for my final touch-ups, usually where the wall and ceiling meet and it is sometimes hard to be perfectly straight.
• Latex gloves. I buy a box of latex disposable gloves. They are really inexpensive. Know matter how hard I try, I get paint on me! If I wear the gloves, they are so thin that they don't interfere with my work. I don't get paint on my hands and inevitably touch something and get paint on that too. If I take a break or change tasks, I can pull of the gloves. Sometimes, I can put on the same pair, but if they are "messy", I use a new pair.
• Blue painter's tape. The blue tape is "painter's tape". I'm all for saving money, but not here. It is so important to tape off any areas that you don't want to paint, or to "edge" a ceiling, or protect a molding from paint. Be sure when you tape, that you run your hand over it so it is absolutely adhering to the surface. It is so much easier to prevent a mishap than to remove paint (even if it is water soluble). Believe me, I HATE to tape, but I have learned when it is important to use. I have also tried using "masking tape" or other types if I've run short or because I had it on hand. A definite mistake....not only will I have paint "seepage", but removing the "other" tape can really mess up my work.
• Drop Cloth. You can buy may sizes and types of drop cloths. I have had room -size ones that prevent the paint from "soaking in" if spilled. They are great, not terribly expensive and especially good if you are doing a lot of painting. Of course, they will last forever! Removing spilled paint from a carpet, could mean new carpet. If you have hardwoods, tile or vinyl it is simpler, but still "a pain in the butt" job that you didn't need! If you don't have a drop cloth of this type, or don't want the expense, look around your house---don't just leave the floors uncovered and left to fate! Personally, I prefer a cloth that is not room-sized, they are just easier for me to work with. I prefer to use smaller ones, sometimes more than one or move them. If I haven't had the cloths, I've used really old towels and sometimes large pieces of cardboard or "Kraft" paper.
• A ladder. Unless you play for the NBA you will need some type of ladder, preferably one with wide steps because you will be on it often. It is amazing how you can feel muscles you didn't know you had because you've been balancing on a ladder for most of a day. If you are going to paint every room in a house or a "foyer", you may have to rent scaffolding. Actually, in some houses "with fabulous entries", the ceilings are so high and some areas almost impossible to paint. I would strongly suggest hiring a paint contractor. This kind of do-it-yourself project is neither fun or safe without the proper equipment. Falling off a tall ladder or stretching to reach the impossible can and often does end up at the hospital!
• Zip-lock bags. I always have plastic bags by my supplies when I paint. If I need to break for awhile or even overnight, I can place my brushes, my paint pad, roller in a plastic bag. When I am ready to go back to work, I just remove the bag.
• Screwdriver. It is just simpler to remove all the switch plates, etc., around the room than to tape around them. The details are important to the quality of the paint job. If it can come off, or down without a great effort, it is often easier than avoiding getting paint on it.
• Old clothes. No matter what I paint or how careful I think I am going to be...I will get paint on my clothes! So because I am no longer kidding myself, I wear clothes that are comfortable and don't matter!
• Slip-on shoes. I usually don't wear shoes when I paint, but rather keep shoes by the door of the room I am working in. This is entirely personal preference. If I step in paint on my drop cloth with my shoes on, I probably won't notice it and then track it elsewhere. If I am wearing socks or barefoot, I will usually feel the paint on my foot before I track it somewhere else. With my shoes by the door, I can slip into them to walk to other parts of the house...if I do have paint on my sock, it might be in my shoe, but not all over my carpet!
• Radio. I really like to have a radio on so I can sing along while I work. I have tried the tv, but I never look at it and it just becomes noise. Music on the other hand, makes the time go quickly and me "upbeat".

OK... so remove everything you can from the room. If you can't remove it, cover it. Before you think about opening the can of paint, be sure your the surface you are painting is clean and dry! No point in doing all the work, if the paint can't adhere to the surface.

If your surface has been painted in a bright color such as a red, you will want to use a primer to keep the old color from "bleeding" through to your new color. It is always nice to use a primer, but really not necessary if; for example, the walls are a neutral color.